Deciphering your massage oil ingredients list

Massage oils are essential for a smooth, relaxing experience, but the labels on these products don’t always tell the whole story. Many oils contain ingredients that may irritate the skin or even pose health risks. The International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI) system helps clarify what’s in your products—if you know what to look for.

Here’s a breakdown of common ingredients to be cautious about, and why a quick look at the ingredients list can make a big difference for your skin and overall wellness.

1. Mineral oils: not as natural as they sound

Mineral oils are widely used in many personal care products, including massage oils, but they’re not plant-based. They come from petroleum, which can occlude the skin. This occlusion traps moisture but can also lead to clogged pores, resulting in acne or irritation. Some users with sensitive skin might find their skin feels suffocated or congested with continued use. Instead, look for natural, plant-derived oils, which nourish and hydrate the skin without creating a heavy barrier.

Paraffinum Liquidum is the standard INCI designation for refined mineral oil, which is commonly used in massage oils for its lubricating and skin-softening properties.

The other mineral oil types – Paraffin, Petrolatum, Cera Microcristallina, Ozokerite, and Ceresin – are rarely used in massage oils. They are typically found in products where a thicker, wax-like consistency or occlusive barrier is required, such as balms and creams.

2. Dyes: pretty colors, no real benefits

Dyes are often added to make massage oils look more appealing. However, they do not contribute to the effectiveness or quality of the oil and may cause skin sensitivity. Synthetic dyes can even lead to irritation or allergic reactions, especially for those with sensitive or reactive skin types. The bright colors might look enticing, but when it comes to massage oils, simpler is often better.

In the INCI system, artificial colors derived from the Food, Drug, and Cosmetic (FD&C) standards in the United States are designated with specific names and numbers. Here’s how they’re listed:

• FD&C (Food, Drug, and Cosmetic): Refers to colors approved for use in food, drugs, and cosmetics in the U.S. Example: FD&C Red No. 40, FD&C Blue No. 1
• D&C (Drug and Cosmetic): Refers to colors approved for use in drugs and cosmetics but not in food. Example: D&C Yellow No. 10, D&C Green No. 5
• External D&C: Refers to colors approved for use only in external cosmetics (not for use around the eyes or on lips). Example: External D&C Violet No. 2

In the European Union, these colors are often listed by CI (Color Index) Numbers, which are unique identifiers that standardize colorant labeling globally. For example:

• CI 16035: Corresponds to FD&C Red No. 40
• CI 42090: Corresponds to FD&C Blue No. 1

In the INCI system, natural dyes are also assigned Color Index (CI) Numbers that uniquely identify each pigment. Here is a list of some common natural dyes with their respective CI numbers:

• CI 75100 – Annatto: Derived from the seeds of the Bixa orellana tree, used for yellow to orange hues.
• CI 75470 – Carmine: Sourced from cochineal insects, provides a red or pink color, widely used in cosmetics and some food products.
• CI 75810 – Chlorophyllin-Copper Complex: A green pigment derived from chlorophyll, found in plants and used for green hues.

3. Parabens: preservatives with potential risks

Parabens are used as preservatives to prevent bacteria and mold in cosmetic products. While they prolong shelf life, they come with risks. Studies suggest that parabens can mimic estrogen in the body, disrupting hormonal balance and potentially leading to various health issues. Look for oils labeled as “paraben-free” to avoid this risk, especially if you’re seeking a more natural, health-conscious option.

Here is a list of common parabens that are most effective at preserving products intended for frequent skin contact and may therefore be found in massage oils:

• Methylparaben (CI 801): frequently used in cosmetics and personal care products, including massage oils, to prevent bacterial and mold growth.
• Ethylparaben (CI 802): an antimicrobial preservative, commonly found in various personal care formulations.
• Propylparaben (CI 803): used as a preservative in cosmetics and personal care products to inhibit microbial growth.

The other parabens (Butylparaben, Isobutylparaben, and Isopropylparaben) are generally less common in massage oils due to their specific applications in other cosmetics.

4. Phthalates: fragrance fixers with a dark side

Phthalates are chemicals that make scents last longer in products, but they come with concerns. Linked to hormone disruptions and potential fertility issues, phthalates are best avoided in products that contact your skin, especially during a massage, where absorption can be higher due to the warmth and friction of the massage itself. When possible, choose oils scented with natural essential oils, which not only smell pleasant but also come with therapeutic benefits.

Diethyl Phthalate (DEP) is the most commonly used phthalate in cosmetics, particularly in fragrances, where it helps stabilize scents and prevents quick evaporation. The other phthalates (for example, DEHP, DINP, and DBP) should not be used in massage oils due to regulatory restrictions!

5. PEGs: emulsifiers that might be hiding something

PEGs (polyethylene glycols) are used in cosmetics as emulsifiers, humectants (attract moisture to skin), thickeners, solvents, or softeners. They help products retain moisture and blend well. However, the manufacturing process can leave them contaminated with ethylene oxide and 1,4-dioxane, both of which are potentially carcinogenic. It’s wise to avoid oils containing PEGs and instead opt for oils with natural emulsifiers if you want to steer clear of hidden toxins.

Here is a list of some common PEGs and related compounds that might be used in massage oils:

• PEG-6: often included as a humectant or emulsifier in lighter oil formulations.
• PEG-8: used as a solvent and skin-conditioning agent, adding moisture without a greasy feel.
• PEG-40: sometimes found as PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, which helps dissolve essential oils or fragrance oils into a massage oil blend.
• PEG-100: typically used in creamier formulations, occasionally appearing in massage lotions for added texture.
• Almondeth-2: a related compound derived from almond oil, serves as a mild emulsifier and solubilizer, helping blend essential oils into massage bases.

6. Silicones: smooth feel, but at a cost

Silicones are popular for their ability to give skin a smooth, silky texture, which can feel luxurious during a massage. But silicones can create a film on the skin that traps dirt, oil, and other impurities, leading to clogged pores and disrupting the skin’s natural ability to breathe. This can sometimes lead to a dull or even congested complexion. For a more skin-friendly choice, look for massage oils that skip the silicones and instead contain lightweight, plant-based oils.

Here is a list of silicones that typically may be found in massage oils:

• Cyclomethicone: often used in massage oils for its lightweight feel and quick-drying properties, leaving a silky finish on the skin.
• Cyclopentasiloxane: a volatile silicone that spreads easily and evaporates without leaving a residue, providing a smooth glide during massage.
• Dimethicone: a common skin-conditioning silicone that adds slip and a protective barrier, often used in massage oils and lotions.
• Dimethiconol: similar to dimethicone but with a slightly thicker consistency, adding a soft, non-greasy feel to massage products.
• Phenyl Trimethicone: known for its shine-enhancing properties, it’s used in some massage oils to create a smooth, luxurious feel.

7. Alcohol: it’s not always your friend

Alcohols are common in many skincare products, and they can serve different purposes. Some alcohols, like cetyl or stearyl alcohol, are fatty alcohols that help to soften and condition the skin. But others, like denatured or SD alcohol, can be drying and irritating, especially with frequent use. If your massage oil contains alcohol, make sure it’s the skin-friendly kind—or skip it altogether to avoid potential dryness and irritation.

These simple alcohols that may be found in massage oils are often used for their preservative, solvent, or texture-enhancing properties:

• Alcohol Denat: denatured alcohol is used as a solvent and evaporates quickly, often added in small amounts to help dissolve essential oils or active ingredients.
• Ethanol (also listed as Ethyl Alcohol): a common solvent that can help essential oils blend into a massage oil base and improve absorption into the skin.
• Benzyl Alcohol: frequently used as a preservative and has a mild scent, adding a light fragrance or serving as a natural preservative in massage oils.
• Isopropyl Alcohol: occasionally used in massage oils for its quick-drying properties, helping to create a light, non-greasy feel.

The fatty alcohols are quite different from the simple alcohols listed above as they do not evaporate quickly or dry the skin, making them well-suited for massage formulations that prioritize moisturization and smooth application.

• Cetyl Alcohol: a waxy, emollient alcohol that helps to thicken and stabilize formulations. It creates a smooth texture, leaving skin soft and hydrated. It’s occasionally added to massage oils to improve spreadability and give a richer feel.
• Stearyl Alcohol: similar to cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol adds thickness and creaminess. It’s sometimes used in richer massage lotions or oil blends to provide a smooth, conditioning effect on the skin.

8. Perfume: a tricky ingredient to judge

Many massage oils have added fragrances to enhance the relaxation experience, but not all perfumes are created equal. Synthetic perfumes can irritate sensitive skin, and they may also trigger headaches for some people.

If you prefer a fragrant oil, check that the scent comes from natural essential oils rather than synthetic fragrances, which are often labeled simply as Perfume or Fragrance on ingredient lists.